Timeless Darkness: A Guide to Gothic Men's Fashion

There’s a lot more to being goth than just wearing black clothes; it’s a lifestyle built around music, community, and seeing the world through a uniquely morbid lens. Dark fashion can help you express yourself, and the goth aesthetics you can choose from are practically endless. If you’re just breaking into goth fashion, don’t despair! (Well, not more than usual anyway.) This guide has everything you need to know to become a man in black.

If you’re interested in goth culture and want to go a bit deeper, check out our guide to the goth subculture to learn more about the wider world of darkness.

Dark History: Men’s Goth Fashion from the 1970s to Today 

Before you fill up your closet with a deluge of black, it’s a good idea to learn a bit about the history of gothic fashion. That way, you’ll have a better idea of what era appeals to you most and what kind of dark style you’re looking for. With over forty years of fashion to choose from, you’re sure to find an aesthetic that matches your inner darkness.

Punk Origins (late ‘70s)

The punks of the mid to late ‘70s created an “anti-fashion” movement built around deconstructed clothes with added embellishments like spikes, safety pins, and patches. The punk rock sensibility was at once playful and defiant, combining ripped jeans with modified vests and jackets. This creative, DIY approach to fashion carried over into the goth aesthetic.

Fashion inspiration:

Trad Goths (early ‘80s)

The very first goth rockers got their start in the London punk scene. Bands like Siouxsie and the Banshees and The Damned channeled punk energy into something more somber and melodic, and the subculture that followed embraced darkness and theatricality. 

The original goths, known as trad goths (short for traditional), kept some features of the punk aesthetic (wild, teased hairstyles, fishnet sleeves, a shocking sensibility), but they shrouded themselves in black and added bold, dark makeup and romantic elements like lace and velvet. With his creative outfits and perpetually smeared makeup, Robert Smith of The Cure is a trad goth fashion touchstone.

Another popular trad goth look involves black leather motorcycle boots and jackets with black pants, chains, and aviator sunglasses. This interpretation of the ‘80s goth look can be seen on Sisters of Mercy frontman Andrew Eldritch.

Fashion inspiration:

Post Punk (late ‘70s-early ‘80s)

In the wake of punk’s first wave, another music and fashion tendency emerged that wasn’t as romantic and camp as the goths but still shared their sense of darkness and alienation. The post punk look is as stark and gray as a Manchester winter, often involving a collared shirt tucked into slacks and styled with an oversized sport coat or trench, or the occasional striped shirt. Dark colors like black, brown, maroon, and gray were popular, and this look was all about minimalism. It was a utilitarian aesthetic perfect for working class bands like Joy Division and their Factory Records cohorts.

Fashion inspiration:

Industrial (1990s)

In the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, a new gothic sound and aesthetic emerged. It was fueled by harsh, dissonant soundscapes and “mechanical” sounding beats, which is where it gets its name: industrial. Trent Reznor’s trailblazing band Nine Inch Nails is the biggest example of this look and sound. 

Aesthetically, the industrial look shares goth’s black color palette. It also involves a lot of buckles, straps, leather, and latex, often with a shiny or “wet” look. Leather pants, mesh shirts, and harnesses were staples of this aesthetic. Makeup was more smudged and worn-looking than the crisp, intricate looks associated with trad goth. 

Fashion inspirations:

Victorian Goth and Steampunk (1980s-present)

The goth subculture has always attracted people with an interest in exploring the ghosts of the past, and Victorian goths take this idea a step further by walking around in their clothes. For trad goths who enjoyed the romanticized darkness and opulent textures of lace, silk, and velvet found within the burgeoning underground subculture, adopting a Victorian look was the next logical step. 

Victorian goths began to incorporate waistcoats, ascots, long frock coats, and tophats into their ensembles. In addition to the fashion aesthetics, the Victorian era’s interest in seances and ghost stories was also foregrounded. Victorian goth encompasses a wide variety of interests and aesthetics, from vintage furniture and interior design to scientific curiosities to gothic literature like Bram Stoker’s Dracula. 

Steampunk emerged as a popular alternative aesthetic in the late 2000s, inspired by Victorian-era science fiction like the works of Jules Verne and H.G. Wells, as well as more recent works that imagined a steam-powered future. It also involves a late 19th-century fashion aesthetic, although with warmer colors and less black than Victorian goth. Accessories like pocket watches, tophats, and goggles with gears and clockwork are staples of this look.

Fashion inspiration:

These are some of the biggest fashion tendencies in the world of goth style, but social media has led to a proliferation of hyperspecific Instagram-ready goth aesthetics such as vampire goth, pastel goth, witchcore, cabaret goth–the list goes on. (Most of these are geared toward women, but this fragmentation affects goth men’s fashion as well.)

It’s easy to fall down the rabbit hole when it comes to categorizing yourself into one aesthetic or the other, but don’t get too hung up on this stuff if you’re just getting your feet wet. It’s more important to find clothes you feel comfortable in than it is to conform to one specific look–especially since being goth is all about celebrating nonconformity.

This video about men’s goth fashion history will take you through all the stages in the evolution of gothic fashion and help you find your ideal style. Goth fashion is individualistic and endlessly adaptable, which has given it remarkable staying power. Whichever look you enjoy is sure to stand the test of time.

How to Dress Goth for Men

Wearing black is the most obvious way to put your dark fashion foot forward. This is the core of any gothic look, a mark of darkness, melancholy, and outsiderdom–not to mention universally flattering. Black basics like jeans, tees, hoodies, and button-downs are the staples of any goth wardrobe, and the great thing is you don’t have to get them from specialty brands. 

Goth band tees and patches from independent outlets like Angry Young & Poor will show off your music taste and help you connect with other goths. (Check out our guide to 80s goth bands to learn more about goth’s musical origins.) Beyond dressing in black and supporting your favorite goth bands, you can explore the different goth fashion aesthetics outlined in this article and find one that speaks to you. Whether you like vintage elegance or punk attitude, there’s a goth look out there to fit your unique taste.

Men’s Goth Accessories 

It’s easy to take a black outfit from basic to gothic with accessories like leather wristbands, spiked chokers, or a goth necklace. Other goth accessories include rings, harnesses, wallet chains, and collar pins. Let your personal sense of style be your guide when finding your perfect accessories.

Necklaces

A necklace is one of the easiest ways to gothify your look. Look for a pendant with a design like a raven skull, Norse or Celtic motif, bone, ankh, or bat. If you enjoy a punk-inspired look, a spiked leather choker or spiked chain necklace is always a good choice. Rosary-style necklaces are popular trad goth jewelry as well.

Bracelets

For a subtle goth touch, a leather wrist cuff or small braided leather bracelets give a hint of alternative edge to a goth outfit. A leather bracelet with pyramid studs is also good for a more punk rock look.

Belts

Studded belts are a must-have for a lot of goth aesthetics, especially deathrock and mall goth looks, but you could also try a snakeskin belt for a western aesthetic, or a skinny leather belt for a post punk or corp goth vibe. A grommet belt is also a good all-around goth belt that matches pretty much any outfit.

Harnesses

A black leather chest harness or shoulder harness is a bold and eye-catching way to elevate your goth style for events like club nights. Wear it over a button-down for a surprising twist.

Goth Shoes for Men

The right pair of shoes instantly gothifies a black outfit. Doc Martens are the classic goth boots for a reason–they’re comfortable, reasonably priced, and practically indestructible. Combat boots are good for everyday wear, but the brand also makes the thick-soled oxfords and loafers known as creepers popularized by punks and early goths in the ‘70s. 

If you want to get more flamboyant with your footwear, Demonia is a good brand to check out. They offer sky-high platform goth boots in a lot of different styles, many of them unisex. Alternatively, black cowboy boots or motorcycle boots are versatile and essential for a western gothic look.

Converse sneakers are a classic choice for casual goth outfits, and you can get black soled ones for a little added darkness.

(Unfortunately, science has not yet discovered a way to make sandals goth. Sorry.)

Types of Gothic Men's Fashion 

Dark Western

A dark western aesthetic is one of the most popular, wearable men’s goth looks. It involves putting a dark spin on classic western wear like fringed or embroidered cowboy shirts, bolo ties, cowboy boots, etc. You can even add a black vest or stetson for even more cowboy cool, or contrast your outfit with a motorcycle jacket to tone it down. Either way, if you love Johnny Cash, this is the look for you. 

Victorian

Victorian goth is an enduring men’s fashion aesthetic, and one that’s pretty easy to achieve. Basically, all you need is a waistcoat in brocade or jacquard fabric to lend a touch of 19th-century elegance to an ordinary outfit of a black or white dress shirt and slacks. From there, you can go as elaborate as you like, with frock coats, sleeve garters, tophats, and even lace-cuffed sleeves for more of an 18th century look. 

Trad Goth

The look that started it all. Trad goth is all about black, androgynous clothes accentuated with a metric ton of hairspray and eyeliner. It’s an 80s aesthetic, and you can find plenty of vintage photos of the early goth scene for inspiration. Men’s trad goth outfits tend to involve black stovepipe pants, a black or white shirt, and black jackets, often worn with jewelry, suspenders, mesh sleeves, and pointy black boots.

Deathrock

If you can’t decide between punk and goth, the deathrock aesthetic will let you keep your spikes and studs while maintaining an aura of darkness. This look is basically punk, just with a mostly black color palette and some spooky styling. If you have the need for some ripped black jeans and a goth band battle jacket, this look has the edgy aesthetic you crave.

Many deathrockers finish their look with a deathhawk hairstyle, a spectral, spooky take on a punk rock mohawk that is longer, wilder, and not as stiff.

Mall Goth

Whether or not you haunted the mall food court as a teen, it’s never too late to embrace your inner high school misfit. Mall goth looks recall the inside of an early-2000s Hot Topic–think big cargo pants, graphic tees, wallet chains, and hoodies with thumb holes. Online retailers like Vampire Freaks have a lot of these goth throwback looks available. Other mall goth accessories include arm warmers and beanies for when the weather gets chilly.

Cybergoth

Hack into the Matrix with this futuristic aesthetic inspired by science fiction and ‘90s rave culture. Cybergoth adds neon accessories like harnesses and glowsticks to late 90s-early 2000s goth looks, often with the addition of colorful faux dreadlocks. Motifs like barcodes and circuit boards would fit the high-tech, dystopian vibe of this aesthetic. 

Grunge Goth

Combining ‘90s grunge with a dark and gloomy goth aesthetic, this look takes the baggy, mismatched flannel and jeans of the Kurt Cobain era and adds a touch of darkness. Layers are key to nailing these casual goth outfits, with band tees layered over long sleeve thermal tops or henleys, often with a flannel shirt tied around the waist. Eclectic combinations of patterns and textures are hallmarks of the grunge aesthetic–try mixing black plaid with a narrow striped t-shirt and ripped black bootcut jeans.

Post Punk

Understated and classic, the men’s post punk aesthetic is epitomized by musicians like Ian Curtis of Joy Division and The Fall’s Mark E. Smith. It involves slacks and button-down shirts or the occasional tee in dark, solid colors, sometimes worn with a trench coat, peacoat, or blazer (however, not with a suit–then you’re getting into corporate goth territory). Overall, the goal is to make business casual clothes look a bit broken in and rumpled. Neckties should be skinny and loosely knotted, and accessories should be minimal. Boots or creepers would work well with this look.

Corporate Goth

Being goth on the clock can be a struggle, but you can still let your darkness out on company time. The corp goth aesthetic is sleek and subtle–think solid black slacks and button-up shirts with slicked back hair right out of American Psycho. Embellishments like black suspenders and striped shirts with contrasting collars are also good for playing up the Patrick Bateman aesthetic.

Goth Men’s Fashion Brands

Finding goth clothes for men can be challenging. It often seems like there are a million fashion options out there for goth women in every conceivable style, whereas goth men have to search high and low to find a few silk waistcoats or black tanks. That being said, there are goth brands out there that have great clothes for men; you just have to do a little digging.

Casual Goth Clothes

Tripp NYC is a classic gothic brand famous for their oversized cargo pants ($128) with lots of straps and zippers, and they carry a lot of men’s clothing that would fit a Y2K, cybergoth, or mall goth aesthetic, although it is on the expensive side. 

Though it skews less goth these days than it did in its mall-walking heyday, you can still find the occasional gem at Hot Topic–and you can’t beat the prices. Check out this cool tarot cart button-up shirt ($29).

If you live in a warm climate but still feel the pull of darkness, check out the fun “tropigoth” brand Black Mast for Hawaiian shirts and shorts that will keep you spooky yet comfortable, often with a pirate theme. 

Victorian Gothic Clothing

Finding quality Victorian gothic clothing for men is a bit of work, but the payoff is so worth it. This is one instance where the thrift store is unlikely to have what you’re looking for, so you’ll have to go straight for specialty retailers like Punk Rave. Victorian goth clothes are generally a bit more expensive than everyday goth wear because of the fabrics and tailoring involved, so be aware that some items might be a splurge.

You can also find unique, made-to-order vests, tailcoats, shirts, and more on Etsy, and they’re often surprisingly affordable.

Western Gothic Brands

Western wear is a staple of a lot of goth men’s outfits. If dark, dusty cowboy is your vibe, you can find some campy cowboy shirts from Kreepsville 666. Katakomb offers some cool bolos and collar tips that will turn any black button-up shirt into a goth western statement. You can also buy plain black cowboy boots and cowboy shirts from brands specializing in western wear and goth them up with a few accessories (honestly, this is probably the best option since fast fashion brands don’t always have the best quality). 

Goth Band Shirts

When it comes to goth band shirts, there are about a million places to find merch, depending on how obscure your music taste is. Night Channels offers an array of black band tees with interesting, less commonly seen designs. Nuclear Waste Underground has a good selection of goth music shirts, hoodies, and tanks, and they’re pretty inexpensive. You can also find some great band tees from sellers on Etsy, and you might even snag a one-of-a-kind vintage find there.

Thrifting Goth Menswear

Thrifting is often the way to go to find unique gothic clothes for men–after all, everything you’ll find is one of a kind. It’s helpful to approach the racks with a creative mindset and consider the possibilities when you’re shopping. For example, a plain black shirt or jacket is just a few rivets and studs away from having a gothic edge.

It also wouldn’t hurt to check out the women’s side of the store for items like chunky open-knit black sweaters, black lace up tops, long black dusters, oversized silk shirts, and dark denim vests that would fit a goth aesthetic. Women’s blazers are often tailored with nipped-in waists, which will give you a goth-friendly androgynous silhouette if you can find one in your size (and thrift stores usually have A TON of vintage women’s suits to choose from that would work for an 80s trad goth look).

Don’t forget to check for shoes and belts while you’re there! A lot of times, you can luck out and find amazing name brand footwear for a fraction of the price. Picking up some black boots from the thrift store could save you upwards of a hundred bucks (and if you know the pain of breaking in a new pair of Docs, a preworn pair will save you some blisters too). 

If you’re not having much luck with thrift store finds in your area, check out a site like Poshmark or vintage sellers on Etsy.

Goth Men’s Capsule Wardrobe

Although there are a lot of specific aesthetics you might gravitate toward as you explore gothic fashion, there are a few versatile pieces that you should definitely pick up to get you started. These goth basics will help you build everyday goth looks as you expand your personal style. Mix and match from the following essentials to help you get comfortable wearing goth clothing:

These are just the basics. From there, you can add some more pieces in dark colors like gray and deep red that will expand your goth repertoire–and don’t forget to accessorize for some added spooky flair. 

Goth Outfit Ideas

This overview of the world of men’s goth clothes should help you find a signature style that speaks to your unique darkness. Whether you want to get elaborate or keep it casual, there’s a goth look out there for you. This guide to goth retailers, outfit ideas, fashion history, and aesthetics will send you down the path of shadows. Whichever dark style you choose, just remember to have fun with it.

Ready to level up your goth style? Get some inspiration with these goth men's hairstyles and our guide to goth makeup for men.