How to Tease Your Hair

Achieving a menacing black cloud of teased hair is a must for trad goth hairstyles, but teasing is a technique that’s fallen out of most people’s styling toolbox as more natural looking ways of achieving volume began to take over in the 90s. Fortunately, we’re here to let you in on the forgotten magicks that will let you live your best 80s goth life. Here’s how to tease your hair 80s style:

What You’ll Need

Purple hair pick on a pink background

The main thing you need is a high-hold hairspray like L’Oreal Paris Elnett Satin Hairspray ($13) that will keep your mane in place. You’ll also need a comb or brush to help you tease your hair out. The type of tool depends on your hair texture. For curly or kinky hair, you’ll want to use a pick ($6) that won’t mess up your curls, while straight or slightly wavy hair requires a fine-toothed comb or backcombing brush ($5) to grab as many hairs as possible when you’re backcombing (but keep in mind that hairspray will get caked on and require periodic washing between uses).

While hairspray is the star of the show here, a healthy dollop of mousse/styling foam worked into your damp hair before you style will add extra volume before you start. You can also try adding volumizing powder ($14) to your roots to reduce the amount of teasing you need to do.

How to Backcomb Hair

Black and white profile portrait of a person with voluminous hair.

Backcombing was the key to achieving that fluffy, sky-high style that defined hair in the 80’s. However, you don’t have to go full Bride of Frankenstein with it–a little bit of subtle backcombing can give your roots a lift that won’t look out of place with a more modern aesthetic. 

Start with clean, dry hair, with or without an added volumizing product. Divide into narrow sections with the pointed end of your teasing brush or comb. Grab a small section about 2 inches wide and brush the hair gently down toward the scalp while holding on to the ends. Repeat until you get the desired amount of volume at the roots and spritz with hairspray to keep it in place. (I know it’s tempting, but try to avoid brushing rapidly up and down since this is very rough on your hair.)

Woman getting her hair styled in a salon setting

Work from the back of your head to the front so you can finesse the appearance of the front sections a bit as you’re wrapping up. You will probably have to flip upside-down to get the back sections of your hair, especially if it’s long.

Once the roots are teased up, you can style the ends with a round brush ($9), smooth them down, or leave them extra wild and crazy for an 80s trad goth hairstyle that would make Siouxsie Sioux proud. Finish with more hairspray and you’re good to go.

How to Care For Teased Hair

Conditioner bottle and tube with purple flowers on a dark surface

For the love of all that is unholy, DO NOT attempt to brush your hair with a standard wire brush once it’s teased out. This is a one-way ticket to breakage city. If you absolutely must brush it, work carefully in small sections with a natural fiber bristle brush ($7) starting from the bottom. 

A better idea is to simply wash out the hairspray without brushing beforehand since teasing your hair is essentially creating volume by tangling it. Don’t skimp on the conditioner after you shampoo, and detangle with leave-in conditioner ($13) when you’re done. This will minimize knots and breakage to keep your hair healthy. 

Backcombing will cause some split ends and damage over time, so it’s best to save it for special occasions. Once your hair is teased up, you can probably get 2-3 days out of it before you need to shampoo since all that hairspray will keep your roots from looking oily.

Using a nourishing hair mask ($13) for damaged hair between teasings is an excellent way to keep your hair happy. You also can’t go wrong with argan oil ($13) or a ravishing scented hair gloss from ethical goth brand Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab.

Woman with blonde hair and blue eye makeup against a dark background

With a little practice, you can be batcave ready in just a few minutes. Once you get the hang of teasing your hair, it will unlock a whole universe of 80s goth hair looks to try out. So don’t be afraid to grab some hairspray and get elevated!

For more gothic throwback hair ideas, visit our Ultimate Guide to 80s Goth Hairstyles for Women, and get some everyday hair inspo with these Goth Hair Dos.
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