Darkness 101: A Guide to Dark Academia Clothing for Women

Of all the aesthetics popularized by online fashionistas, dark academia might just have the most staying power. It’s flattering and timeless, and so easy to start creating a wardrobe with pieces you already own. 

The dark academia aesthetic is classic and sophisticated while still maintaining a dark edge. It’s perfect for goths who want to branch out from their usual spooky look, or for scholars of style looking to experiment with dark fashion. If you dream of sipping tea in ivy-covered libraries while exploring ancient texts, this is the look for you. Our dark academia style guide is here with everything you need to know to start haunting the rare book collection in this dark fashion aesthetic.

In addition to the world of dark academic fashion, we've compiled a list of books, movies, and TV shows with dark academia elements, as well as some dark academia lifestyle inspiration to help you plumb the depths of knowledge in style.

What Is Dark Academia?

Dark academia is a fashion aesthetic and lifestyle that embraces styles and hobbies inspired by prep schools, the hallowed halls of universities like Cambridge and Oxford, and old-fashioned scholarly accessories like leatherbound journals, fountain pens, and tortoiseshell glasses. It could be described as “goth goes prep,” taking classic preppy looks and giving them a dark, moody makeover.

Dark Academia and Its Relationship with the Past

The aesthetic is characterized by a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era when Liberal Arts, Literature, and Classics were elevated subjects to be pursued at elite universities. However, this longing for the past is complicated. 

Rather than presenting an idealized past, the “darkness” in dark academia represents a nod toward the inequality, classism, and imperialism that propped up these ancient institutions of higher learning. It evokes shadowy secret societies that covered up the nefarious deeds of the privileged. These gothic elements are what distinguish this aesthetic and lifestyle from light academia, which is a more sunny, carefree take on the preppy styles of times gone by.

Dark academia involves an acknowledgment that even though the vintage fashions may be fabulous, the time that produced them was not free of injustice. It’s a dark mirror reflecting the more sinister side of the academy. It can also be an implicit critique of present-day universities that perpetuate the same issues. 

It’s also a way to reclaim the fashions of yesteryear’s elite while putting your own individual spin on them, no matter your background–a democratization of style. At the heart of this movement is a tension between romanticizing the past and reckoning with its darker elements.

Of course, you don’t necessarily have to grapple with all these implications just because you want to wear a black sweater and some pleated chinos and fill your library with leatherbound books. But as with any aesthetic that looks to the past for inspiration, dark academia invites conversations about how much things have changed–and how much they haven’t.

Vintage Fashion

Often, dark academia looks incorporate vintage styles inspired by everything from early 20th century fashion to 1960s and ‘70s clothing aesthetics, giving you the perfect opportunity to flaunt your classic pieces. There’s no set of rules about what decade the clothes should emulate; it’s more about creating a classic or timeless feeling.

Prep school uniforms tend to be the template for this style, and they haven’t changed all that much over the past hundred years. Blazers, trousers, pleated skirts, and ties will always be in style. Whether you go for a 1920s drop waist dress or a 1970s corduroy jacket, the styling should be classic, and the colors should be mostly deep, rich hues, black, or jewel tones.

There’s a bit of overlap between dark academia and the corporate goth aesthetic, but the former leans more into vintage fashion and embraces color, whereas the latter is all about crisp, sleek (usually all-black) silhouettes. However, a lot of individual pieces such as black dresses or blazers would work for both looks.

 Here are a few dark academia wardrobe basics to get you started on the road to higher learning:

Dark Academia Color Palette

Classic fall colors dominate the dark academia color palette. Aside from the usual black clothes, think about incorporating shades like plum, burgundy, burnt orange, navy, charcoal, hunter green, brown, and camel. If you’re goth, this look is a great opportunity to branch out from your go-to all-black ensemble by pairing black clothing with neutrals like gray or beige.

On the other hand, if you don’t usually opt for dark colors, this is the perfect chance to experiment with a deep, rich color palette that will make you see preppy clothes in a whole new light.

Textures & Patterns

Worsted wool, corduroy, and tweed are a few fabrics commonly associated with this aesthetic—they’re cozy, timeless, and a feast for the eyes. For summer, linen, chiffon, and silk would be light and airy while still maintaining the luxurious textures associated with dark academia clothes. Natural fabrics with a bit of variation in the weave are ideal.

Find clothes in patterns like plaid, windowpane check, argyle, gingham, paisley, Swiss dots, subtle florals, herringbone, and houndstooth—think understated and elegant rather than loud and attention-grabbing. The dark academia aesthetic is all about the details, so go for patterns that invite close inspection.

Dark Academia Clothing

Blazers

Nothing says dark academia fashion like a corduroy blazer with leather elbow patches. If you’d rather rock a look that is less professorial, a gray, black, or dark green blazer in plain wool is a scholarly choice that won’t leave you looking too officey if you style it with a comfortable, cozy sweater.

Buttons in gold, silver, or tortoiseshell are an eye-catching detail that would really elevate a basic blazer and make it a dark academia delight. (You can even add vintage buttons to a thrifted blazer for a posh look at a fraction of the price.)

Sweaters

You can never have enough cashmere cable knit sweaters–they’re the perfect foundation for casual dark academia outfits. Wear them in every autumnal shade you can think of while you carry an armload of dusty books from the library. 

For a sleek, classic look, a black turtleneck always radiates sophistication. You could also go for a sweater vest over a button down for a cozier feel. Sweater vests are essential pieces in a dark academia wardrobe because they’re so versatile and great for layering.

Shirts

An oversized poplin shirt is a classic staple piece you can dress up or down depending on what you pair it with. Tuck it into a pleated mini skirt for a quick jaunt to the coffee shop, or pair it with a ravishing houndstooth suit for a more polished aesthetic.

In general, button-downs are your friends when it comes to dark academia fashion, easy to layer or crisp and classic on their own. Try a loose silk or chiffon blouse you can tuck into some high-waisted trousers or a skirt for a dressier look.

A sleeveless black blouse or dressy tank top will go with absolutely everything in your closet and keep you looking chic even in summer. 

Suits

A sleek, tailored suit is always welcome in dark academia fashion–just avoid plain black or gray fabrics to keep it from looking too corporate. Instead, go for tweed or textured wool, and add a waistcoat and a whimsical tie to capture that eccentric professor look.

A 1960s-style skirt suit would be a polished spin on the look, or you could wear a pencil skirt and a blazer for a more eclectic take on the suited silhouette.

Skirts and Dresses

A pleated skirt is the ultimate piece of dark academia clothing for women, and you can always experiment with different lengths and types of pleats—such as a gorgeous semi-formal accordion pleat—to find what works for you. (Don’t forget the knee high socks if you’re wearing a plaid mini!) A pencil skirt or plaid midi skirt will also have those vintage vibes you crave.

As dresses go, whatever style you go for should be fairly structured. A classic ‘60s sheath dress pairs beautifully with a trench coat and the chic ballet flats that have been making a recent comeback. A belted shirtdress is another classic style you can easily accessorize with horn-rimmed glasses and a leather crossbody bag. An a-line dress is flattering for many different body types and looks effortlessly polished.

Trousers

Pleated chinos or corduroy trousers are staples of women’s dark academia clothing—and you can easily rock them with a button down and a thick leather-banded watch. Wear them with lots of fall layers and you’ll be ready for whatever weather the season of mists throws your way.

If you really want to embrace a vintage aesthetic, you can always add a classic pair of suspenders.

Dark Academia Shoes

Oxfords, loafers, or ankle boots are all excellent choices for women who want to experiment with dark academia style. Leather or vegan leather shoes lend a polished look to your ensemble. Plus, they’re ideal for crunching crisp autumn leaves underfoot.

Goth brands like Disturbia also make footwear inspired by this look if you need a bit more darkness in your academia.

Casual Dark Academia Outfits

This aesthetic is very put-together, but that doesn’t mean it has to be fussy. It’s easy to throw together a casual dark academia look by wearing an oversized sweater and jeans or a jumpsuit with some loafers or flats. Also, a trench coat adds instant dark academic vibes to practically any outfit.

Accessories

Purses & Bags

A leather crossbody bag would suit most any dark academia look you can think of, and a clutch purse would be perfect for those 1950s and ‘60s-inspired looks. But the queen of dark academia accessories is always going to be a leather satchel for your latest book haul.

Scarves & Hats

This aesthetic is nothing if not cozy, and an elegant wool, silk, or cotton scarf is the perfect accessory. You can’t go wrong with plaid! 

For a springtime scarf, go for a classic square scarf in a dark scrollwork or paisley pattern, and wear it knotted at your neck or over your hair for a chic ‘60s throwback. You can even tie it on your purse for a touch of glam.

A newsboy cap or beret lends a sense of polish to your dark academia outfit–and keeps you warm on the way to the used book store.

Glasses

Cute specs are essential for creating that bookish look, and there are so many options to choose from. Tortoiseshell glasses are an absolute staple, although oversized black-framed glasses would work as well. Classic cat-eye sunglasses add an instant touch of vintage glamor to any dark academia outfit.

Jewelry

The jewelry should match the vintage aesthetic of the clothes. A leather-banded wristwatch is a perfect accessory to suit the look, and a strand of pearls accentuates a lot of midcentury-inspired outfits. A statement brooch would really set off those wool blazers and add a bold touch to this otherwise buttoned-up aesthetic.

Dark academia jewelry is fairly minimal as a rule, with most of the emphasis being placed on the tailoring and texture of the clothes. However, a single statement ring with a black stone would match the look–as would pearl or gold earrings or a black beaded necklace.

Dark Academia Colors

Branch out from black and create outfits with these classic dark academia color combos:

Where to Buy Dark Academia Clothes

The great thing about dark academia is you can thrift pretty much everything since the aesthetic is based on vintage looks. Visit your local thrift store for jackets, blouses, skirts, and pants that would suit the dark and intellectual look you’re going for. 

You can also try searching Poshmark, Etsy, Depop, and ThredUp for secondhand clothes you can incorporate into a dark academia aesthetic. Genuine vintage clothes are also higher quality than a lot of what you’ll find in stores today, meaning they’ll last longer. Those little details you find in vintage clothing like substantial fabric texture, pattern matched seams, and cloth covered buttons really do make a difference as well.

Brands like J. Crew and Ralph Lauren are good for classic preppy clothes you can style with a bit of dark flair. Ethical clothing brand Christy Dawn carries statement pieces like trench coats that will become staples of your wardrobe if you’re in the mood for a splurge.

Further Study: Books, Movies, and TV shows with a Dark Academia Aesthetic

Still wondering what look to choose? Get some dark fashion inspiration from these titles:

The Secret History by Donna Tartt

A Lesson in Vengeance by Victoria Lee

These Violent Delights by Micah Nemerever

Babel by R.F. Kuong

The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde

The Bell Jar by Sylvia Plath

Dead Poets Society

The Magicians

Kill Your Darlings

A Single Man

The Dreamers

Rope

Maurice

Brideshead Revisited

Atonement

Dark Academia Lifestyle Inspiration

More places, interests, and hobbies to spark your dark imagination:

These dark academia outfit ideas, lifestyle tips, and dark fashion inspo should get you on your way to style graduation. If you want to inject some sophistication into your personal style, this dark and brooding aesthetic is one you’ll love for years to come. (Now, you just have to get started on that to-read pile.)